Colombo bound: Sri Lanka tuk-tuk challenge

What do you get when you put 70 foreigners in charge of 25 tuk-tuks? Charles Starmer-Smith finds out as he leads Team Telegraph on a wild and wonderful 10-day ride across a devastated land that's slowly regaining its tourism feet – and its winning smile.

LEG 7 - Homeward bound

Related Articles
LEG 1: Rickshaw rookies
LEG 2: Vehicle problems and Veddha people
LEG 3: Hills and haggling
LEG 4: Tree and tea country
LEG 5: From Nuwara Eliya's summit to the sea
LEG 6: Back to Mirissa beach
Mirissa to Colombo – 95 miles
Both tuk-tuks and saddle-sore drivers may be on their last legs, but the overriding feeling is of sadness that it will soon be over. Remote village scenes are gradually replaced by more urban settings – and shameless posters trumpeting the government's military victory. No one feels much like racing.
In Galle, we stop to admire the ramparts of the 17th-century Dutch fort. In Weligama, we photograph fishermen balancing precariously on stilts in the face of the oncoming tide – a graphic illustration of the sad tales they tell of traditional methods being replaced by modern techniques. Our final stop is at a school set up for children affected by the tsunami, where we are to play a cricket match. The home team, dressed immaculately in whites, appear buoyed by the sight of their flip-flop wearing opponents.
The schoolchildren take up every vantage point, eager to see these Westerners get a good whipping. They are not disappointed – our target of 68 runs off the allotted 10 overs is easily chased down. But the pupils prove delightful hosts and, with news of another academy opening up in the war-torn north-east, it feels great to be a small help in unearthing cricketing stars from the poorest communities.
What follows is a final procession through the capital to the closing ceremony at the Cinnamon Grand hotel. Feeling a mixture of euphoria and pride as Colombo momentarily comes to a standstill, we lean out of our tuk-tuks to acknowledge the friendly horns and waves from bystanders. Sri Lanka has not had much to laugh about in recent times, but, judging by the crowds of media gathered, the story of 70 foreigners criss-crossing their country in tuk-tuks has clearly had a following and, if nothing else, brought back broad smiles in the land for which they are famous.
As for the final rankings, Team Telegraph finished a respectable 12th. The winners? The Australians, of course, but by then none of us really cared.
The Lanka Challenge (www.lankachallenge.com) returns to Sri Lanka between September 1-13, 2010. The trip costs £705 per person, based on a team of three. Includes food, lodging and tuk-tuk hire, but not flights. Return flight to Colombo with Sri Lanka Airlines (0208 538 200; www.srilanka.aero) from £365.
For more information: 0845 88063333; www.srilanka.travel