The roads are improving but some are still in bad condition and most are often crowded, the trains get crowded too and are not always on time but seeing Sri Lanka by rail is infinitely more fun than by car. Sri Lankan trains are easy to use and cheap as chips. You can reach most of the major destinations by train and the journey is an experience in itself, you also get to meet real people. If you are on a package deal a train journey is the perfect introduction to independent travel. Most of the resorts (Negombo, Kalutara, Bentota, Hikkaduwa etc) have a railway station and frequent trains. Why not try a short trip first? You can just turn up at the station and see whats going where, buy a ticket from the office and climb aboard. For example, should you find yourself in Beruwala or Bentota you can walk to Aluthgama station and take a trip down to Galle. Galle station is in the city centre and five minutes walk from the fort. The departures and arrivals are written up in English so there really isnt a problem finding your way back, Trains to the north all stop at Aluthgama. The train is likely to be busy but if you travel down mid-morning and back mid-afternoon you miss the commuter crowds. Trains to the Hill Country have a first class section where you are guaranteed a seat and the night trains have sleepers, you will need to pre-book these but you can usually do this on the day. On the west coast most trains have only second and third, go for second. Real train buffs should read the excellent, Sri Lanka by Rail, by Royston Ellis.Public transport gets particularly busy at weekends and public holidays and as ever, you need to watch out for touts, who are usually single males. Do not be afraid to strike up conversation with groups of travellers, you will make new friends and they will keep the touts away.
A rail trip 'up country' can be one of the highlights of your holiday, book yourself into the first-class observation car and you can do it in comparative comfort.I like second class train travel in Sri Lanka because you get to meet real people but the novelty soon wears off if you are forced to stand in a crowded carriage (with unsanitary toilets) for hours on end. Reserving a seat in the first class observer carriage can give you the best of both worlds and its as cheap as chips.You might be able to do a deal with the guard on the train but to be sure of a seat you really do need to book in advance, there is a special window at Colombo Fort station for first class reservations- try not to leave it too late.Don’t expect the Orient Express (and the seats usually face the wrong way) but compared to the rest of the train the first class car is real luxury.
There is no perfect way to move around Sri Lanka with a public transport. Trains are slow and bus drivers are completely crazy! So the choice is yours! My personal preference goes to train. And not because it's cheaper then bus.Just because travelling by train gives more chances to meet local people. And also because watching at beautyful landscapes mowing slowly on the other side of the window it's not unpleasant. Certainly less stressing that crowded, noisy bus with crazy driver speeding through the villages.But if you choose the train keep in mind one thing - you cannot be in the hurry!
A great way to see a bit of the hillcountry is a train trip from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya. Train tickets are quite cheap in Sri Lanka and you can expect the train to be crowded (it starts in Colombo). If you want to have a seat in the 1st class observation carriage you should book in advance as there are just a few seats there.The ride takes about 4 hours and we paid 80 Rupees for the 2nd class.
During security alerts you are likely to be stopped at checkpoints, it’s not so scary the armed forces are usually very polite and helpful. Your Sri Lankan friends will need to produce their ID but sudhhas (whites) are often waved on, although you should have have you passport with you when ever you travel.The way to be waved through every checkport is to travel with a Buddhist Monk, travel with Tamil friends and the opposite applies.
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